The roots of Rubia tinctorum L. have a long tradition of being used in dyeing processes of textiles from centuries ago until the present time. The colouring principles belong to the class of hydroxyanthraquinones. Concern arose because several of these compounds were recognised as mutagenic in vitro and even carcinogenic in rodents. To assess the possible risk to humans caused by coloured textiles, mutagenicity was investigated with two madder root samples of different origin (Iran and Bhutan) along the entire dyeing process from root extracts to the dyed wool. The Salmonella/microsome test (Ames assay) with the strains TA98, TA100 and TA1537 was used. Significant mutagenic effects could be detected in madder root extracts and also in the final product, the dyed wool. Madder root from Iran showed considerably higher mutagenic responses than samples from Bhutan. Analytical investigations of the extracts by HPLC showed the presence of a spectrum of anthraquinones typical for madder root. Three mutagenic compounds, lucidine, rubiadine and purpuroxanthine, together with the non-mutagenic alizarine could be detected. The mutagenic response of the different samples was positively correlated with the concentration of the mutagenic anthraquinones, and with lucidine in particular. Based on these investigations a risk to dye-house workers and users of textiles dyed with R. tinctorum must be anticipated.