The content of benzo[a]pyrene (BaP), a polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon, was determined by HPLC-FL in "mozzarella di bufala campana" cheese, a stretched cooked cheese, either experimentally smoked according to traditional procedures, using straw, cardboard, and wood shavings or aromatized with smoke flavoring. The BaP residues, researched also in cheese samples sold at retail, were detected in the rind, in the core, and in the slice (outer and inner parts). In the cheeses experimentally smoked with straw and cardboard the BaP levels, ranging from 0.38 to 2.12 microg kg(-1) and from 0.46 to 2.40 microg kg(-1), respectively, were statistically higher than those of the cheeses smoked with wood shavings and aromatized with liquid smoke (from 0.19 to 0.80 microg kg(-1) and from 0.18 to 0.50 microg kg(-1), respectively). However the cheeses treated with liquid smoke flavor showed a BaP content exceeding the level allowed by the European Union. In the samples sold at retail, smoked with straw, values were lower than those obtained from samples smoked experimentally with the same combustible. This is probably due to different smoking technologies among the several provinces of the Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) area. PDO is a term used to characterize foodstuffs produced and prepared in a given geographical region by the means of a recognized process. A standardization of the traditional smoking procedures and an improvement of liquid smoke purification treatments are recommended for mozzarella cheese.