The potential of Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil as a pure natural cosmetics raw material: In Vitro findings

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 May;23(5):1875-1883. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16204. Epub 2024 Mar 7.

Abstract

Background: As a traditional Chinese herbal medicine, Paeonia lactiflora Pall is rich in various active ingredients such as polysaccharides and total flavonoids while having ornamental value. It has potential application value in the development of food and cosmetics.

Objective: To study the in vitro efficacy of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil.

Methods: Firstly, the levels of linolenic acid and linoleic acid in Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil were quantified using gas chromatography. The impact of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on the proliferation rate of B16F10 cells was assessed through the CCK-8 method, while the melanin content of B16F10 cells was determined using the sodium hydroxide lysis method. The inhibitory effects of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil on elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase were evaluated by biochemical techniques in vitro. Lastly, the hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test (HET-CAM) was conducted to confirm the absence of eye irritation caused by Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil.

Results: Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil within a certain volume concentration range (0.5%-4%) had no effect on the proliferation of B16F10 cells. Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil showed significant inhibition of elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase. Notably, the highest concentration tested, 4% Paeonia lactiflora Pall seed oil, yielded the most pronounced outcomes without causing any irritation.

Conclusion: A certain concentration of Paeonia lactiflora Pall seeds oil has a significant effect on decreasing the melanin content in B16F10 cells and inhibiting the activities of elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase, which can provide a reference for the development of pure natural cosmetics raw materials.

Keywords: Paeonia lactiflora pall seeds oil; cosmetics; fatty acid; in vitro efficacy.

MeSH terms

  • Animals
  • Cell Line, Tumor
  • Cell Proliferation* / drug effects
  • Chickens
  • Chorioallantoic Membrane / drug effects
  • Collagenases* / metabolism
  • Cosmetics / chemistry
  • Cosmetics / pharmacology
  • Hyaluronoglucosaminidase*
  • Linoleic Acid / analysis
  • Linoleic Acid / pharmacology
  • Melanins* / analysis
  • Melanoma, Experimental / drug therapy
  • Mice
  • Paeonia* / chemistry
  • Pancreatic Elastase* / metabolism
  • Plant Oils* / pharmacology
  • Seeds* / chemistry
  • alpha-Linolenic Acid / analysis
  • alpha-Linolenic Acid / pharmacology

Substances

  • Melanins
  • Hyaluronoglucosaminidase
  • Pancreatic Elastase
  • Plant Oils
  • Collagenases
  • Linoleic Acid
  • Cosmetics
  • alpha-Linolenic Acid