This work describes a new hair dyeing methodology using a chemical reaction between geniposide, an iridoid glycoside extracted from the fruit of Genipa americana (geniposide extract, GE) and the amine group of hair keratin. The influence of reaction conditions (pH, temperature, and extract concentration) on the staining of hair fibers, color development, fiber morphology, and mechanical hair properties of black and white human hair samples, was evaluated before and after GE dyeing treatment. Eye contact safety of GE was also studied using HET-CAM. The treatment of white hair fibers using GE at 20 mg mL-1 , temperature of 80 °C and pH 5.5 presented the greatest color change (ΔE=54.0). The higher pH influence was observed at pH 10.0 on white hair tresses (ΔE=6.8), using an GE concentration of 20 mg mL-1 and room temperature (25 °C). Treated samples showed marked changes on mechanical and morphological properties. The HET-CAM did not show any change, thus demonstrating that using GE is safe. In conclusion, the temperature and concentration of the extract were the variables that mostly influenced the color and hair damage. A new approach for hair dyeing was established where iridoids may potentially be useful as a natural hair dyeing.
Keywords: Genipa americana; hair coloring; hair damage; phytochemistry, toxicology; safety.
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