Antiaging effects of a skin care formulation containing nanoencapsulated antioxidants: A clinical, in vitro, and ex vivo study

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Feb;23(2):510-524. doi: 10.1111/jocd.15976. Epub 2023 Sep 1.

Abstract

Background: The development of effective cosmetic products for the reduction of the signs of skin aging is a complex process which requires an optimized combination of ingredients and specialized systems to deliver the actives to the skin layers.

Aim: To evaluate the tolerance and antiaging clinical efficacy of a cosmetic formulation containing a blend of nanoencapsulated antioxidants: ascorbyl palmitate, resveratrol, tocopherol, caffeine, carnosine, and niacinamide.

Methods: Clinical efficacy was determined by subjective and instrumental analyses of collagen synthesis by fluorescence spectroscopy, by three-dimensional imaging analysis of suborbital edema, and by analysis of skin hydration and sebum content by biophysical techniques-Corneometer® and Sebumeter®.

Results: The studied formulation was safe and effective for the improvement of skin appearance by increasing collagen synthesis and skin moisturizing and by reducing facial blemishes, swelling, and oiliness. A preclinical exploratory approach using an experimental model of human cell and skin cultures agreed with the observed antiaging effects, identifying mechanisms related to the containment of oxidative stress, reduction of melanin production, increased synthesis of type I procollagen, and regulation of the epidermal cohesion protein filaggrin.

Conclusions: The skin benefits obtained resulted from the combination of the ingredients in the formulation and the nanoencapsulation-based delivery system, which favors the solubility, safety, efficacy, and bioavailability of the preparation to the skin.

Keywords: collagen; cosmetic formulation; filaggrin; melanin; nanoencapsulated antioxidants.

MeSH terms

  • Antioxidants / chemistry
  • Collagen / metabolism
  • Cosmetics* / chemistry
  • Cosmetics* / pharmacology
  • Humans
  • Skin
  • Skin Aging*
  • Skin Care

Substances

  • Antioxidants
  • Cosmetics
  • Collagen