Roselle (Hibiscus sabdariffa L.) is a plant that has traditionally been used in various food and beverage products. Here, we investigated the potential of water extracts derived from Roselle leaves and callus cells for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes. We generated calluses from Roselle leaves and produced two different water extracts through heat extraction, which we named Hibiscus sabdariffa plant extract (HSPE) and Hibiscus sabdariffa callus extract (HSCE). HPLC analysis showed that the two extracts have different components, with nucleic acids and metabolites such as phenylalanine and tryptophan being the most common components in both extracts. In vitro assays demonstrated that HSCE has strong anti-melanogenic effects and functions for skin barrier and antioxidant activity. Transcriptome profiling of human skin cells treated with HSPE and HSCE showed significant differences, with HSPE having more effects on human skin cells. Up-regulated genes by HSPE function in angiogenesis, the oxidation-reduction process, and glycolysis, while up-regulated genes by HSCE encode ribosome proteins and IFI6, functioning in the healing of radiation-injured skin cells. Therefore, we suggest that the two extracts from Roselle should be applied differently for cosmetics and pharmaceutical purposes. Our findings demonstrate the potential of Roselle extracts as a natural source for skincare products.
Keywords: Roselle; cosmetics; skin cells; transcriptome profiling; water extracts.