Coffee silverskin (CS) is the thin epidermis covering and protecting the coffee bean and it represents the main by-product of the coffee roasting process. CS has recently gained attention due to its high content in bioactive molecules and the growing interest in valuable reutilization of waste products. Drawing inspiration from its biological function, here its potential in cosmetic applications was investigated. CS was recovered from one of the largest coffee roasters located in Switzerland and processed through supercritical CO2 extraction, thereby generating coffee silverskin extract. Chemical profiling of this extract revealed the presence of potent molecules, among which cafestol and kahweol fatty acid esters, as well as acylglycerols, β-sitosterol and caffeine. The CS extract was then dissolved in organic shea butter, yielding the cosmetic active ingredient SLVR'Coffee™. In vitro gene expression studies performed on keratinocytes showed an upregulation of genes involved in oxidative stress responses and skin-barrier functionality upon treatment with the coffee silverskin extract. In vivo, our active protected the skin against Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)-induced irritation and accelerated its recovery. Furthermore, this active extract improved measured as well as perceived skin hydration in female volunteers, making it an innovative, bioinspired ingredient that comforts the skin and benefits the environment.
Keywords: cafestol; chemical profiling; coffee silverskin; diterpenoid esters; eco-friendly extraction; hydration; kahweol; skin-barrier; sustainability.