We developed a facile preparation method of oil-in-water (O/W) Pickering emulsion in an emollient formulation using basil extract (Ocimum americanum L.) as a solid particle stabilizer by fine-tuning the concentration and mixing steps of common cosmetic formulas, such as humectants (hexylene glycol and glycerol), surfactant (Tween 20), and moisturizer (urea). The hydrophobicity of the main phenolic compounds of basil extract (BE), namely, salvigenin, eupatorin, rosmarinic acid, and lariciresinol, supported high interfacial coverage to prevent coalescence of globules. Meanwhile, the presence of carboxyl and hydroxyl groups of these compounds provides active sites for stabilizing the emulsion using urea through the formation of hydrogen bonds. Addition of humectants directed the in situ synthesis of colloidal particles during emulsification. In addition, the presence of Tween 20 can simultaneously reduce the surface tension of the oil but tends to inhibit the adsorption of solid particles at high concentrations, which otherwise formed colloidal particles in water. The level of urea and Tween 20 determined the stabilization system of the O/W emulsion, whether interfacial solid adsorption (Pickering emulsion, PE) or colloidal network (CN). Variation of the partition coefficient of the phenolic compounds present in basil extract facilitated the formation of a mixed PE and CN system with better stability. The addition of excess urea induced interfacial solid particle detachment, which caused the oil droplet enlargement. The choice of stabilization system determined the control of antioxidant activity, diffusion through lipid membranes, and cellular antiaging effects in UV-B-irradiated fibroblasts. Particle sizes of less than 200 nm were found in both stabilization systems, which is beneficial for maximizing their effects. In conclusion, this study provides a technological platform to realize the demand for natural dermal cosmetic and pharmaceutical products with strong antiaging effects.
© 2023 The Authors. Published by American Chemical Society.