Currently, there are three major assaying methods used to validate in vitro whitening activity from natural products: methods using mushroom tyrosinase, human tyrosinase, and dopachrome tautomerase (or tyrosinase-related protein-2, TRP-2). Whitening agent development consists of two ways, melanin synthesis inhibition in melanocytes and downregulation of melanocyte stimulation. For melanin levels, the melanocyte cell line has been used to examine melanin synthesis with the expression levels of TRP-1 and TRP-2. The proliferation of epidermal surfaced cells and melanocytes is stimulated by cellular signaling receptors, factors, or mediators including endothelin-1, α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone, nitric oxide, histamine, paired box 3, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, pyrimidine dimer, ceramide, stem cell factors, melanocortin-1 receptor, and cAMP. In addition, the promoter region of melanin synthetic genes including tyrosinase is upregulated by melanocyte-specific transcription factors. Thus, the inhibition of growth and melanin synthesis in gene expression levels represents a whitening research method that serves as an alternative to tyrosinase inhibition. Many researchers have recently presented the bioactivity-guided fractionation, discovery, purification, and identification of whitening agents. Melanogenesis inhibition can be obtained using three different methods: tyrosinase inhibition, copper chelation, and melanin-related protein downregulation. There are currently four different types of inhibitors characterized based on their enzyme inhibition mechanisms: competitive, uncompetitive, competitive/uncompetitive mixed-type, and noncompetitive inhibitors. Reversible inhibitor types act as suicide substrates, where traditional inhibitors are classified as inactivators and reversible inhibitors based on the molecule-recognizing properties of the enzyme. In a minor role, transcription factors can also be downregulated by inhibitors. Currently, the active site copper iron-binding inhibitors such as kojic acid and chalcone exhibit tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Because the tyrosinase catalysis site structure is important for the mechanism determination of tyrosinase inhibitors, understanding the enzyme recognition and inhibitory mechanism of inhibitors is essential for the new development of tyrosinase inhibitors. The present review intends to classify current natural products identified by means of enzyme kinetics and copper chelation to exhibit tyrosinase enzyme inhibition.
Keywords: catalysis site structure; copper chelation; kinetics; tyrosinase inhibitors.