Ursolic acid (UA) is a plant-derived molecule with relevant anti-aging activity, which makes this molecule a potential functional active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. The main objectives of this study were to optimize the UA extraction process from Annurca apple (AA) with sunflower oil as a lyophilic food-grade solvent using Response Surface Methodology (RSM) to determine the potential cosmetic application of the obtained extract. The results of RSM analysis showed a maximum UA yield of 784.40 ± 7.579 (μg/mL) obtained under the following optimized conditions: sunflower oil as extraction solvent, 68.85 °C as extraction temperature, and 63 h as extraction time. The HPLC-DAD-HESI-MS/MS analysis performed on the extract obtained under these conditions, named Optimized Annurca Apple Oleolyte (OAAO), led to the identification of twenty-three phenolic and terpenoid molecules and the quantification of eight of them. To explore the biological properties of OAAO, the in vitro antioxidant activity was evaluated by DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP assays, resulting in 16.63 ± 0.22, 5.90 ± 0.49, and 21.72 ± 0.68 μmol Trolox equivalent/g extract, respectively. Moreover, the permeation study has shown that OAAO may be considered a safe and functional ingredient in potential cosmetic formulations.
Keywords: antiaging; biocompatible solvent; oleolyte; response surface methodology; ursolic acid.