Endogenous and exogenous factors can alter the skin layer and appearance, determining skin aging. The extracts and isolated molecules from food matrixes can be used to formulate "healthy" antiaging cosmetics. Two different cosmetic approaches can be used to achieve the antiaging effect. It is possible to use topical products based on food extract (cosmeceutical approach) or take a food supplement and apply a topical cosmetic product based on food extract on the surface to be treated (nutricosmetic approach). This work evaluated in vivo the antiaging potential of a nutricosmetic formulation (cream + food supplement) and a cosmeceutical cream based on Curcuma. The choice of the commercial Curcuma extract to be used for experimental purposes was based on the curcuminoid content determined by an HPLC test. Curcuminoids are the bioactive compounds responsible for Curcuma's antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. Their levels in Curcuma extracts vary according to the storage condition, variety, and pedoclimatic cultivation conditions. The Tewameter® TM300 was used to evaluate the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), the Corneometer® CM 825 to determine the moisturizing effect, the Cutometer® to estimate the skin firmness and elasticity, the Dermascan to assess the collagen index, and the Visioface® 1000D to evaluate the wrinkles. The nutricosmetic product showed potential as moisturizing, anti-age, and anti-wrinkle action better than the cosmeceutical product alone.
Keywords: HPLC; TEWL; curcuminoid dosage; food cosmetic; moisturizing effect; skin elasticity; skin firmness; spices analysis; wrinkles decrease.
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