The potential use of kraft lignins as natural ingredients for cosmetics: Evaluating their photoprotective activity and skin irritation potential

Abstract

The cosmetics market has recently undergone changes as consumers increasingly seek sustainable products. In this context, agro-derived lignins have the potential for cosmetics applications. Thus, this study investigated the photoprotective activity and skin irritation potential (OECD TG 439 with SkinVitro-RHE, an in-house reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model) of a kraft lignin (LE) and two LE-derived lignins modified by enzymatic reactions to achieve higher molecular weight (Mw) (R1: intermediate Mw and E60: highest Mw). Results showed that LE and R1 lignins present adequate photoprotective activity with averages Sun Protection Factor (SPF) of 33.8 ± 0.02 and 22.7 ± 0.04, respectively. The E60 also present adequate SPF (22.4 ± 0.2); however, due to its poor solubility, this lignin has potential application as a physical filter. In terms of safety, these lignins did not cause skin irritation or cellular and structural damage to the epidermis. Additionally, using an analysis based on the autofluorescence feature of lignin, no sign of the tested lignins was found in exposed RHE models, indicating that these three lignins did not penetrate the skin. Altogether, the results indicate a promising application of kraft lignins for sunscreen products regarding safer alternatives and product sustainability. Also, the SkinVitro-RHE showed to be a good model for evaluating the skin irritation potential of substances, including natural cosmetic ingredients.

Keywords: Lignins; Natural cosmetic ingredients; Reconstructed human epidermis; Skin irritation.