The effective dermal penetration of active ingredients (AI) is a major task in the formulation of topical products. Besides the vehicle, the mechanical skin treatments are also considered to impact the penetration efficacy of AI. In particular, professional skin treatments, i.e., professional cosmetic skin treatments, are considered to be optimal for the dermal delivery of AI. However, a systematic study that proves these theories is not yet available and was therefore performed in this study while utilizing an ex vivo porcine ear model with subsequent digital image analysis. Hydrophilic and lipophilic fluorescent dyes were used as AI surrogates and were applied onto the skin without and with professional skin treatments. The skin hydration and the penetration efficacy were determined, respectively. Results showed that professional skin treatments with massage were able to increase the skin hydration, whereas a professional skin treatment without massage could not increase the skin hydration when compared to skin without professional skin treatment. Regarding the penetration efficacy, it was found that all parameters tested, i.e., type of professional skin treatment, lipophilicity of the AI, and the time point at which the AI are applied onto the skin, can have a tremendous impact on the penetration efficacy of the AI. The most effective penetration and the most effective skin hydration is achieved with a professional skin treatment that includes a professional skin massage. This kind of skin treatment can therefore be used to improve dermal drug delivery.
Keywords: corneotherapy; cosmetic; dermal drug delivery; facial treatment; massage; penetration enhancement; professional skin care; skin.