Background: Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin, while excessive synthesis of melanin can cause abnormal pigmentation and induce skin diseases. Long-term use of commercial whitening agents in managing skin melanin such as kojic acid and arbutin can lead to some negative effects such as dermatitis and liver cancer. Although past studies have researched the melanin inhibitory effect of plant extracts, the effective dose and mechanisms are not well summarized and discussed. This study aims to explore the melanin inhibitory property of phytochemicals and tries to answer the following research questions: (1) Which plant extracts and phytochemicals could inhibit melanin biosynthesis in the skin? what is the mechanism of action? (2) Have human trials been conducted to confirm their melanin inhibitory effect? (3) If not, which phytochemicals are recommended for further human trials? This article would provide information for future research to develop natural and safe skin whitening products.
Methods: A preferred reporting items for systematic reviews and meta-analyses (PRISMA) systematic review method and OHAT risk-of-bias tool were applied to screen literature from 2000 to 2021 and 50 research articles met the selection criteria.
Results: Flavonoids, phenolic acids, stilbenes and terpenes are main classes of phytochemicals responsible for the melanin inhibitory effects. The in vitro/in vivo melanin inhibitory effects of these plant extracts/phytochemicals are achieved via three main mechanisms: (1) the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv., and phytochemicals such as galangin and origanoside could manage melanin biosynthesis through competitive inhibition, non-competitive inhibition or mixed-type inhibition of tyrosinase; (2) phytochemicals such as ginsenoside F1, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde could inhibit melanogenesis through down-regulating microphthalmia-related transcription factor (MITF) gene expression via different signalling pathways; (3) the ethanolic extracts of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius have a good ultraviolet absorption ability and high sun protective factor (SPF) values, thereby inhibiting UV induced melanogenesis in the skin.
Conclusion: Although many plant extracts and phytochemicals have been found to inhibit melanin production, most of the results were only proved in cellular and/or animal models. Only the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv. panicle, and ginsenoside F1 were proved effective in human trials. Animal studies proved the effectiveness of galangin, origanoside, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde with effective dose below 3 mM, and therefore recommended for future human trial. In addition, cellular studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of oxyresveratrol, mulberroside A, kurarinol, kuraridinol, plumbagin, (6aR,11aR)-3,8-dihydroxy-9‑methoxy pterocarpan, ginsenoside Rh4, cardamonin, nobiletin, curcumin, β-mangostin and emodin in inhibiting melanin synthesis at low concentrations of 20 µM and proved the low SPF values of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius extracts, and therefore recommended for further animal and human trials.
Keywords: Inhibition; Melanin; Microphthalmia-related transcription factor (MITF); Skin whitening; Tyrosinase; Ultraviolet.
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