Zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) are a key constituent of many commercial broad-spectrum sunscreens. Studies have shown that these NPs are retained on the superficial layers of the skins' barrier layer, the stratum corneum, and solubilized zinc species from the ZnO NPs have been shown qualitatively to penetrate intact human skin. The cytotoxicity of zinc is concentration- and species-dependent; however, to date, the amount of zinc permeating the skin strata is yet to be determined. Here, we applied commercial ZnO NPs to intact and impaired ex vivo barrier human skin. Artificial human sweat (to provide an electrolyte solution) and caprylic capric triglyceride (CCT; a common sunscreen formulation base) suspensions were applied to encompass potential "in-use" scenarios. A state-of-the-art multimodal approach analyzed zinc permeation. Our data show that elevated zinc concentrations within the skin are dependent on a number of variables, with barrier impairment and time being the most important factors followed by the vehicle, where sweat was more impactful than CCT. When ZnO NPs were applied to impaired barrier skin for 24 h, there was a 60-65-fold increase in zinc in the viable epidermis for both CCT and sweat compared to the control, increasing >100-fold after 48 h. Importantly, we identify that the localized cutaneous zinc concentration increase is not present as the nano ZnO that is used in sunscreens but only after dissolution and permeation as a different solubilized zinc species.
Keywords: nanoparticles; skin; speciation; sunscreen; toxicology; zinc oxide.