Background: Intrinsic aging promotes wrinkles formation by an imbalance between matrix synthesis/degradation in favor of degradation. This is accelerated by the exposome leading to overproduction of protease and fewer remodeling.
Objective: Protecting the integrity of extracellular matrix appears as the most efficient anti-aging solution. We developed a grafted HA specifically designed to get anti-aging property due to a specific molecular weight and acetylation degree.
Methods: A transcriptomic analysis was performed on fibroblasts, followed by a measurement of MMP secretion and subsequent effect on collagen degradation. MMP expression in skin explants concerned by chronobiological and extrinsic aging was analyzed by immunostaining. A clinical study was conducted on volunteers presenting wrinkles on face to evaluate flash reduction of wrinkles after 6 h of application by profilometry and anti-aging efficacy after 2 months by VISIA® CR2.3.
Results: Transcriptomic analysis evidenced an inhibition of MMP gene expression with acetylated HA, confirmed by an inhibition of MMPs release by fibroblasts, and a protection of type I collagen against degradation. We confirmed the reduction of MMPs in mature skin and in skin explants exposed to UV and urban dust. We demonstrated during clinical studies the flash reduction effect of acetylated HA on crow's feet wrinkles and a filling of nasogenian areas 6 h after application, and a wrinkles number reduction on nasogenian area up to 2 months of application.
Conclusion: We developed a new grafted HA owing protective properties against ECM degradation induced by chronobiological and extrinsic aging, leading to a significant and efficient anti-wrinkles effect.
Keywords: anti-wrinkles; extracellular-matrix; extrinsic aging; intrinsic aging; sodium acetylated hyaluronate.
© 2021 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.