Most modern sunscreens contain physical filters, which scatter the sunlight, increasing the photons' pathway in the upper stratum corneum. This effect can lead to a better efficacy of the UV filters and improve the diffuse reflection. However, the addition of nanosized inorganic UV filters reduces the antioxidant capacity of sunscreen formulations. Two cream formulations (F1, F2) which differ in the ingredient PEG75 Lanolin (F2), have been characterized for their radical protection factor (RPF) and their optical properties in vitro using electron paramagnetic resonance (EPR) spectroscopy and UV/VIS spectrometry. The RPF for PEG-75 Lanolin was also determined. Furthermore, their radical protection properties were analyzed on porcine skin ex vivo after visible light irradiation by EPR. The structure of each formulation in the skin surface was determined by reflectance confocal microscopy in vivo. The addition of lanolin increased the reflectance and reduced the transmittance for visible light, improving the scattering drastically. Besides, the antioxidant capacity was also increased for F2, something unpublished until now. F1 presented a lower scattering provided by starches. The sunscreens showed high scattering properties and antioxidant capacity, especially for F2, which presented the lowest radical formation in the skin model. These results are consistent with the RPF measurements where F2 has a higher RPF value (193 ± 3 × 1014 radicals/mg) than F1 (155 ± 4 × 1014 radicals/mg) and for PEG-75 Lanolin (37 ± 1 × 1014 radicals/mg). The combination of starches and PEG-75 Lanolin is the first solution to provide both, light scattering and antioxidant capacity, in sunscreens.
Keywords: Electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy; Optical properties; Radical protection factor (RPF); Starches; Sunscreen; Visible light.
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