Zinc compounds have a number of beneficial properties for the skin, including antimicrobial, sebostatic and demulcent activities. The aim of the study was to develop new anti-acne preparations containing zinc-amino acid complexes as active ingredients. Firstly, the cytotoxicity of the zinc complexes was evaluated against human skin fibroblasts (1BR.3.N cell line) and human epidermal keratinocyte cell lines, and their antimicrobial activity was determined against Cutibacterium acnes. Then, zinc complexes of glycine and histidine were selected to create original gel formulations. The stability (by measuring pH, density and viscosity), microbiological purity (referring to PN-EN ISO standards) and efficacy of the preservative system (according to Ph. Eur. 10 methodology) for the preparations were evaluated. Skin tolerance was determined in a group of 25 healthy volunteers by the patch test. The preparations containing zinc(II) complexes with glycine and histidine as active substances can be topically used in the treatment of acne skin due to their high antibacterial activity against C. acnes and low cytotoxicity for the skin cells. Dermatological recipes have been appropriately composed; no irritation or allergy was observed, and the preparations showed high microbiological purity and physicochemical stability.
Keywords: acne; amino acids; antibacterial activity; cytotoxicity; skin tolerance; zinc(II) complexes.