The aim of this study was to determine the effects of anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening of fermented black ginseng (FBG) in human subjects and to examine underlying biochemical mechanisms of action. A clinical study was performed to evaluate efficacy and safety using a 1% FBG cream formulation. Twenty-three subjects were recruited and instructed to apply control or FBG creams each on half of their face twice daily for 8 weeks. After 8 weeks, FBG cream significantly reduced the appearance of eye wrinkles compared to prior to exposure and control cream. Skin color was significantly brightened using FBG cream in comparison with a control cream. To determine the mechanism of actions involved in anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects various concentrations of FBG were applied to human fibroblast CCD-986sk and mouse melanoma B16F1 cells. Collagen synthesis in CCD-986sk cells was improved significantly at 1, 3, 10, or 30 µg/ml of FBG. At 30 µg/ml, FBG significantly inhibited (73%) collagenase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) compared to control. Tyrosinase activity and DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine) oxidation were significantly decreased at all tested concentrations. Melanin production in B16F1 cells was concentration-dependently reduced from 15% to 60% by all concentrations of FBG. These results suggested that a 1% FBG cream exerted anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects.
Keywords: Fermented black ginseng; MMP-1; anti-wrinkle; cosmetics; whitening.