The aim of this study was to determine the effects of anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening of fermented black ginseng (FBG) in human subjects and to examine underlying biochemical mechanisms of action. A clinical study was performed to evaluate efficacy and safety using a 1% FBG cream formulation. Twenty-three subjects were recruited and instructed to apply control or FBG creams each on half of their face twice daily for 8 weeks. After 8 weeks FBG cream significantly reduced appearance of eye wrinkles compared to prior to exposure and control cream. Skin color was significantly brightened using FBG cream in comparison with control cream. To determine the mechanism of actions involved in anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects various concentrations of FBG were applied to human fibroblast CCD-986sk and mouse melanoma B16F1 cells. Collagen synthesis in CCD-986sk cells was improved significantly at 1, 3, 10, or 30 µg/ml of FBG. At 30 µg/ml, FBG significantly inhibited (73%) collagenase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) compared to control. Tyrosinase activity and DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine) oxidation were significantly decreased at all tested concentrations. Melanin production in B16F1 cells was concentration-dependently reduced 15% to 60% by all concentrations of FBG. These results suggested that a 1% FBG cream exerted anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects.
Keywords: Fermented black ginseng; anti-wrinkle; cosmetics; mmp-1; whitening.