Sugars are ubiquitous in organisms and well-known cosmetic ingredients for moisturizing skin with minimal side-effects. Glucose, a simple sugar used as an energy source by living cells, is often used in skin care products. Several reports have demonstrated that sugar and sugar-related compounds have anti-melanogenic effects on melanocytes. However, the underlying molecular mechanism by which glucose inhibits melanin synthesis is unknown, even though glucose is used as a whitening as well as moisturizing ingredient in cosmetics. Herein, we found that glucose significantly reduced the melanin content of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH)-stimulated B16 cells and darkly pigmented normal human melanocytes with no signs of cytotoxicity. Furthermore, topical treatment of glucose clearly demonstrated its whitening efficacy through photography, Fontana-Masson (F&M) staining, and multi-photon microscopy in a pigmented 3D human skin model, MelanoDerm. However, glucose did not alter the gene expression or protein levels of major melanogenic proteins in melanocytes. While glucose potently decreased intracellular tyrosinase activity in melanocytes, it did not reduce mushroom tyrosinase activity in a cell-free experimental system. However, glucose was metabolized into lactic acid, which can powerfully suppress tyrosinase activity. Thus, we concluded that glucose indirectly inhibits tyrosinase activity through conversion into lactic acid, explaining its anti-melanogenic effects in melanocytes.
Keywords: glucose; human skin equivalent; melanogenesis; sugar; tyrosinase.