For centuries, perfumes consisted in a combination of natural ingredients, mainly of plant origin. From the 19th century on, the advent of organic synthesis enabled the deployment of multiple synthetic olfactory notes, enriching significantly the perfumers' portfolio. Chemistry is ever since the foundation of modern perfumery. However, sustainable-minded consumers, massively rejecting synthetics for safety and ecological issues, engaged a global return to nature in numerous sectors, and the fragrance industry is not outdone. Sustainable extraction of natural products, making use of innovative technologies, process intensification and agro-based solvents, constitutes the answer to develop eco-conceived fragrant ingredients covering every olfactory family without endangering biodiversity any further. The objective of this review is to draw a clear picture of where those technological advances are today and to assess the ones that may be effectively transposed at the industrial scale tomorrow.
Keywords: alternative solvents; eco-extraction; fragrances; innovative process; natural products.
© 2019 Wiley-VHCA AG, Zurich, Switzerland.