Clinical evaluation of the safety and efficacy of a timosaponin A-III-based antiwrinkle agent against skin aging

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Feb;19(2):423-436. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13035. Epub 2019 Jun 18.

Abstract

Background: Timosaponin A-III (TA-III) is known to exist in the medicinal herb of Anemarrhena asphodeloides as one of major chemical components.

Aims: The photoprotective properties of TA-III on UVB-exposed HaCaT cells were evaluated on the antiwrinkle effects and skin safety in terms of clinical trial.

Methods: The level of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases (TIMPs), and pro-inflammatory cytokines were measured in HaCaT cells following UVB irradiation. To evaluate the clinical safety of an agent containing 0.25% of TA-III for use on human skin. Female subjects (n = 21) between the ages of 43 and 55 who met the criteria for subject selection were selected. They were beginning to form or had already formed wrinkles.

Results: UVB irradiation increased MMP-1 expression and pro-inflammatory cytokines. These increases were attenuated by TA-III pretreatment of UVB-exposed HaCaT cells. We found that the agent containing 0.25% of TA-III ameliorated skin wrinkling. A comparison between groups showed that wrinkle parameters were significantly reduced after 12 weeks of product use (P < 0.05). According to skin safety result, TA-III showed no dermatological toxicity was found in participants.

Conclusions: In conclusion, TA-III could provide protection against photoaging and daily application of TA-III for 12 weeks significantly reduced signs of facial aging by limiting wrinkle formation.

Keywords: Anemarrhena asphodeloides; clinical trial; skin wrinkle; timosaponin A-III.

Publication types

  • Randomized Controlled Trial

MeSH terms

  • Adult
  • Cell Line
  • Cosmetics / administration & dosage
  • Cosmetics / adverse effects*
  • Cytokines / metabolism
  • Female
  • Humans
  • Keratinocytes / drug effects
  • Keratinocytes / metabolism
  • Matrix Metalloproteinase 1 / metabolism
  • Middle Aged
  • Saponins / administration & dosage
  • Saponins / adverse effects*
  • Skin Aging / drug effects*
  • Skin Aging / radiation effects
  • Steroids / administration & dosage
  • Steroids / adverse effects*
  • Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinases / metabolism
  • Ultraviolet Rays / adverse effects

Substances

  • Cosmetics
  • Cytokines
  • Saponins
  • Steroids
  • Tissue Inhibitor of Metalloproteinases
  • timosaponin AIII
  • MMP1 protein, human
  • Matrix Metalloproteinase 1