Background: Skin hydration is essential for maintaining stratum corneum (SC) flexibility and facilitating maturation events. Moisturizers contain multiple ingredients to maintain and improve skin hydration although a complete understanding of hydration mechanisms is lacking. The ability to differentiate the source of the hydration (water from the environment or deeper skin regions) upon application of product will aid in designing more efficacious formulations.
Materials and methods: Novel confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) experiments allow us to investigate mechanisms and levels of hydration in the SC. Using deuterium oxide (D2 O) as a probe permits the differentiation of endogenous water (H2 O) from exogenous D2 O. Following topical application of D2 O, we first compare in vivo skin depth profiles with those obtained using ex vivo skin. Additional ex vivo experiments are conducted to quantify the kinetics of D2 O diffusion in the epidermis by introducing D2 O under the dermis.
Results: Relative D2 O depth profiles from in vivo and ex vivo measurements compare well considering procedural and instrumental differences. Additional in vivo experiments where D2 O was applied following topical glycerin application increased the longevity of D2 O in the SC. Reproducible rates of D2 O diffusion as a function of depth have been established for experiments where D2 O is introduced under ex vivo skin.
Conclusion: Unique information regarding hydration mechanisms are obtained from CRM experiments using D2 O as a probe. The source and relative rates of hydration can be delineated using ex vivo skin with D2 O underneath. One can envision comparing these depth-dependent rates in the presence and absence of topically applied hydrating agents to obtain mechanistic information.
Keywords: confocal Raman microscopy; epidermis; skin barrier; skin hydration; stratum corneum; water content.
© 2019 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.