Effect of a botanical cleansing lotion on skin sebum and erythema of the face: A randomized controlled blinded half-side comparison

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019 Jun;18(3):821-826. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12680. Epub 2018 Jul 18.

Abstract

Background: Elevated levels of skin sebum are associated with the growth of Propionibacterium acnes. Intensive degreasing of the skin reduces Propionibacterium acnes but also may cause skin irritation.

Aims: We assessed the degreasing effect and skin tolerability of a botanical face cleanser with hops and willow bark extract and disodium cocoyl glutamate as mild cleansing agent compared to a standard face cleanser with sodium laureth sulfate (SLES).

Materials and methods: A total of 21 healthy volunteers with normal to oily skin were enrolled in this study. Both cleansers were applied twice a day on the left or right side of the forehead for 15 days in a standardized manner. Bioengineering measurements were performed on day 8 and 15 and on day 17 after an application break of 48 hours. The sebum level was determined using a Sebumeter® , and skin redness was measured using a Mexameter® .

Results: The botanical face cleanser significantly reduced the sebum level (P < .01) in the test area on day 17. The SLES containing cleanser showed a statistically relevant degreasing effect already on day 15, but after the application break the sebum level increased again on day 17. None of the cleansers caused skin irritation as determined by skin redness measurements.

Conclusions: In contrast to the SLES containing cleanser, the botanical skin cleanser with hops and willow bark extract had a continuous degreasing effect without reactive seborrhoe after the treatment break. Skin cleansing without SLES might be advantageous for sensitive skin.

Keywords: Mexameter; Sebumeter; acne; degreasing; face cleanser.

Publication types

  • Randomized Controlled Trial

MeSH terms

  • Adult
  • Erythema / chemically induced
  • Erythema / diagnosis*
  • Female
  • Healthy Volunteers
  • Humans
  • Male
  • Middle Aged
  • Photometry
  • Plant Extracts / administration & dosage*
  • Plant Extracts / adverse effects
  • Plant Extracts / chemistry
  • Sebum / drug effects*
  • Sebum / metabolism
  • Severity of Illness Index
  • Skin / diagnostic imaging
  • Skin / drug effects*
  • Skin / metabolism
  • Skin Cream / administration & dosage*
  • Skin Cream / adverse effects
  • Skin Cream / chemistry
  • Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate / administration & dosage
  • Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate / adverse effects
  • Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate / analogs & derivatives
  • Treatment Outcome
  • Young Adult

Substances

  • Plant Extracts
  • Sodium Dodecyl Sulfate
  • sodium laureth sulfate