Preparation, Characterization, and Biological Activities of Topical Anti-Aging Ingredients in a Citrus junos Callus Extract

Molecules. 2017 Dec 11;22(12):2198. doi: 10.3390/molecules22122198.

Abstract

In this study, we prepared and characterized a callus extract from Citrus junos and assessed its utility as a source of topical anti-aging ingredients. Callus extract was produced by aqueous extraction from Citrus junos grown on Murashige and Skoog medium with picloram as a growth regulator. After measuring the total phenolic and flavonoid contents, the major phenolic compound in calli was identified as p-hydroxycinnamoylmalic acid (1) by spectroscopic analysis. The total phenol content in the extract was determined to be 24.50 ± 0.43 mg/g of gallic acid equivalents; however, the total flavonoid content of the extract was not determined. The biological activities of the callus extract, in terms of skin anti-aging, were assessed by measuring the anti-tyrosinase activity in, and melanogenesis by, melanoma cells; and proliferation of, and procollagen synthesis by, human fibroblasts. The callus extract was incorporated into nanoliposomes (NLs) to improve its percutaneous absorption. Addition of the callus extract resulted in a 1.85-fold decrease in the melanin content of melanocytes compared with that with arbutin. The extract (500 μg/mL) significantly promoted the proliferation of, and procollagen synthesis by, fibroblasts (by 154% and 176%, respectively). In addition, the flux through the human epidermis of Citrus junos callus extract incorporated into NLs was 17.67-fold higher than that of the callus extract alone. These findings suggest that Citrus junos callus extract-loaded NLs have promise as an anti-aging cosmetic, as well as having a skin-lightening effect.

Keywords: Citrus junos; anti-aging; callus extract; cosmetic ingredients; plant cell culture; skin lightening.

MeSH terms

  • Administration, Topical
  • Aging / drug effects*
  • Biphenyl Compounds / pharmacology
  • Cell Proliferation / drug effects
  • Citrus / chemistry
  • Citrus / growth & development*
  • Fibroblasts / drug effects
  • Fibroblasts / metabolism
  • Flavonoids / chemistry
  • Flavonoids / isolation & purification*
  • Flavonoids / pharmacology*
  • Gallic Acid / chemistry
  • Gallic Acid / pharmacology
  • Humans
  • Monophenol Monooxygenase / antagonists & inhibitors
  • Picrates / pharmacology
  • Plant Extracts / chemistry
  • Plant Extracts / isolation & purification
  • Plant Extracts / pharmacology
  • Procollagen / biosynthesis
  • Skin Lightening Preparations / chemistry
  • Skin Lightening Preparations / pharmacology

Substances

  • Biphenyl Compounds
  • Flavonoids
  • Picrates
  • Plant Extracts
  • Procollagen
  • Skin Lightening Preparations
  • Gallic Acid
  • 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl
  • Monophenol Monooxygenase