Hexamidine (HEX) has been used as a preservative in topical preparations since the 1950s. A number of studies also indicate that the molecule plays a beneficial role in skin homoeostasis. In this review, we describe the physicochemical properties of hexamidine diisethionate (HEX D) and the corresponding hydrochloride salt (HEX H). The biocidal and protease inhibition properties of HEX are outlined as well as the effects of HEX on lipid processing enzymes, corneocyte maturity, stratum corneum thickness and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Skin permeation properties of HEX D and HEX H are summarized, and formulation approaches for effective dermal targeting of HEX are discussed.
Keywords: biocide; formulation; hexamidine; protease inhibitor; salt; skin.
© 2017 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.