In vivo photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, vitamins, Ginkgo biloba and red algae extracts

J Photochem Photobiol B. 2015 Dec:153:121-6. doi: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2015.09.016. Epub 2015 Sep 16.

Abstract

The aim of this study was to assess the photoprotective effects of cosmetic formulations containing UV filters, red algae, Porphyra umbilicalis, extracts and combinations of the extract with vitamins and Ginkgo biloba through the use of in vivo preclinical studies. For this study, 4 groups of 4 hairless mice each were treated with topical formulations applied on the dorsum for 5 days as follows: group 1 - control (no treatment); group 2 - application of the formulation F (sunscreen formulation containing only UV filters); group 3 - application of the formulation FA (sunscreen formulation with red algae extract); and group 4 - application of the formulation FVGA (sunscreen formulation with red algae extract, G. biloba and vitamins A, C and E). The effects of these formulations were evaluated by determining the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and erythema index. Apoptosis was detected by immunohistochemical staining with anti-p53 and anti-caspase-3 antibodies. The results showed that the formulations protected the skin from erythema when exposed to UV radiation. The group that received the formulation FVGA presented a greater TEWL than did the other groups, suggesting that this formulation was involved in cell renewal. Immunohistochemical analysis showed that UV radiation caused an increase in the expression of p53 and active caspase-3, confirming that the damage caused by UV radiation exposure led to apoptosis. The application of all formulations studied resulted in a statistically significant reduction in the expression of p53 and caspase-3, with a more pronounced effect observed following treatment with FA. In conclusion, extracts from the red algae P. umbilicalis could be considered effective ingredients to be used in sunscreen formulations. The combination of vitamins A, E, C and G. biloba along with red algae extracts can improve significantly the performance of the sunscreens, preventing UV-induced DNA damage and inflammation. Thus, they should be considered an interesting combination for an effective photoprotective formulation with anti-aging properties.

Keywords: Antioxidant substances; Cosmetics; Immunohistochemical analysis; Photoprotective; Preclinical studies.

MeSH terms

  • Administration, Topical
  • Animals
  • Apoptosis / drug effects
  • Apoptosis / radiation effects
  • Caspase 3 / metabolism
  • Cosmetics
  • Epidermis / pathology
  • Erythema / etiology
  • Erythema / prevention & control
  • Ginkgo biloba / chemistry*
  • Ginkgo biloba / metabolism
  • Immunohistochemistry
  • Male
  • Mice
  • Mice, Hairless
  • Plant Extracts / chemistry
  • Plant Extracts / pharmacology*
  • Rhodophyta / chemistry*
  • Rhodophyta / metabolism
  • Skin / drug effects*
  • Skin / pathology
  • Skin / radiation effects
  • Sunscreening Agents / chemistry
  • Sunscreening Agents / pharmacology*
  • Tumor Suppressor Protein p53 / metabolism
  • Ultraviolet Rays*
  • Vitamins / pharmacology*

Substances

  • Cosmetics
  • Plant Extracts
  • Sunscreening Agents
  • Tumor Suppressor Protein p53
  • Vitamins
  • Caspase 3