Ethnopharmacological relevance: Voluntary depigmentation, a very common practice in sub-Saharan Africa, often performed with pharmaceutical products diverted from their pharmacological use, may cause severe dermatological and systemic side effects. The present work aims at investigating whether and which herbs were used in Rwanda for similar purposes before the advent of the current depigmentation craze; this may give clues at herbal treatments possibly advantageous compared to current products.
Material and methods: Sixty-one traditional healers, mostly representatives of their associations, were surveyed by questionnaires for knowledge and practice of voluntary depigmentation. Recipes or plants used, plant parts, harvest area, preparation methods, dosage and route of administration were recorded. Most of the cited herbs were harvested with the help of traditional healers and identified by comparison with voucher specimens; herbal vouchers of the five most cited herbs were deposited in official herbaria.
Results: All surveyed traditional healers have knowledge of voluntary depigmentation; the population currently practicing do not recourse to their services but obtain bleaching products directly from the market. Traditional healers disclosed recipes prescribed or self-used (often by women) in their youth; others cited recipes are used to treat skin diseases with properties of "clarification", "black skin stain removal", in cases of hyperpigmentation, and/or "skin softening". Curiously, from the 28 recipes cited by traditional healers, all are mono-herbal preparations; most of the plants are mixed with butter for application to the skin.
Conclusion: Compared to other pathophysiological conditions, there is currently a very limited use of herbal preparations for depigmentation. Five herbs had a citation percentage equal or above to 50%, Brillantaisia cicatricosa Lindau (Acanthaceae), Chenopodium ugandae (Aellen) Aellen (Chenopodiaceae), Dolichopentas longiflora Oliv. (Rubiaceae), Protea madiensis Oliv. (Proteaceae) and Sesamum angolense Welw. (Pedaliaceae); in vitro experiments indicated a modulation of melanogenesis by these plant extracts, confirming the information obtained from traditional healers.
Keywords: Botany; Cosmetics; Rwanda; Skin; Traditional medicine Africa; Voluntary depigmentation.
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