Photodegradation of retinol and anti-aging effectiveness of two commercial emulsions

J Cosmet Sci. 2006 Jul-Aug;57(4):261-77.

Abstract

Two commercial anti-aging products, RETI C and RETI C concentrate emulsions, containing retinol and vitamin C, were studied. The concentration of vitamin A was determined over time, subjecting the creams to an accelerated stability test. Both emulsions, when stored at 25 degrees C, showed a moderate decrease over time in retinol concentration, while after storage at 40 degrees C the percentage of retinol degraded increased over time. Under UVA irradiation, the retinol degraded to a greater extent than under UVB irradiation, both in RETI C and RETI C concentrate emulsions. In order to verify the anti-aging effectiveness of the emulsions, an in vivo test on some female volunteers was carried out, evaluating the visible results of the application of the creams on the skin surface. The creams were rather unstable after storage at 40 degrees C, but they were effective in treating the signs of aging and in reducing facial wrinkles.

MeSH terms

  • Adult
  • Aged
  • Ascorbic Acid / chemistry*
  • Ascorbic Acid / pharmacology*
  • Ascorbic Acid / radiation effects
  • Cosmetics / chemistry*
  • Cosmetics / pharmacology*
  • Cosmetics / radiation effects
  • Drug Stability
  • Electric Conductivity
  • Emulsions / chemistry
  • Emulsions / pharmacology
  • Female
  • Humans
  • Middle Aged
  • Photochemistry
  • Rheology
  • Skin Aging / drug effects*
  • Ultraviolet Rays
  • Viscosity
  • Vitamin A / chemistry*
  • Vitamin A / pharmacology*
  • Vitamin A / radiation effects

Substances

  • Cosmetics
  • Emulsions
  • Vitamin A
  • Ascorbic Acid